The legendary Deep South Gully (I****), Beinn Alligin.
Weird and wonderful climbs are by no means a rarity in Scotland, but Deep South Gully is pretty mad. If the scenary and situation of a route is more important to you than the grade, then is this one of the best Scottish winter climbs?
I very nearly didn't climb this route on Wednesday, the air seemed too mild and the snowline too high. The incessant wind which has characterised this winter was doing its stuff and I'd started to lose hope that it would be worth my while. There wasn't a single other car in the Beinn Alligin carpark - did they know something I didn't? Should I have set my sights on a higher corrie instead?
Views to Beinn Bhan.
At this point a golden eagle briefly appeared flying past the gully.
A soft ice pitch to gain the narrows. Above this the climbing briefly becomes a bit more like potholing.
Inside the first chockstone cave. The next squeeze is much tighter.
Looking down on the first chockstone.
More squeezing and crawling to come.
Marked improvement in snow conditions in the upper half of the gully.
The second Horn of Alligin.