Monday, 1 April 2013

Beinn Udlaidh's West Gully

Soloing "West Gully" (III*), Beinn Udlaidh

If you'd had told me a few months back that I would climb my first ever route on Beinn Udlaidh on the last day of March I would have been sceptical to say the least.

I entered this winter with my usual reservations firmly in place about soloing ice..I was going to stick to buttresses, ridges and perhaps one or two gullies that inspired me. But this has been a winter of firsts, and with an opportunistic attitude I have reaped the rewards of an outstanding season in ways I didn't expect.



A heavily banked out Beinn Udlaidh
 
Soloing and enjoying numerous grade III gullies in the past month (classic and obscure) has made me carefully reconsider my attitude towards ice. In a winter this good, avoiding ice routes would be to miss out on bearing the fruits of such a perfect combination of conditions.


Beinn Udlaidh is somewhere I'd always rejected as somewhere I'd go soloing. Scotland's most well-known low-level ice climbing crag…a place of great quality after heavy snow-fall and sustained cold, but not somewhere I'd have felt confident climbing un-roped until very recently.
 

 The icy world of Beinn Udlaidh

 "Organ Pipe Wall"

And it had never really occurred to me that I would climb my first ever route here this late in the season…in fat and good conditions, confidently and enjoyably, before an Easter Sunday Clachaig morning shift. I had no idea this would be the next twist-in-the-plot of my winter until a few hours before I was greeted by the famous pigs that guard the track into Beinn Udlaidh's Coire Daimh.

 Looking up West Gully

 
 On the crux

How bizarre it felt to be standing underneath such extensive ice after such a short walk from the car, at such low altitude, when spring had already been well-established for weeks already this time last year. Getting sunburnt on the dry rock of the Northern Cuillin last March felt a life-time ago.

West Gully was in great condition - first-time axe placements and an enjoyable course through the icy world of Beinn Udlaidh. The atmosphere here felt very different to that of the higher mountains, cosy almost, the stresses and concerns of snow conditions and hazards still present, but without the fully "Alpine" feel of many of my days climbing recently.


Extensive ice near the top of West Gully
 
By 9am I was back in the glen having a chat with the Orchy Farm pigs.
What next in this season which doesn't want to end?

James

1 comment:

  1. What a winter. I was fortunate to get a little taste of it. You are fortunate indeed. Well done on making the most of it.

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