Friday, 16 October 2009

East Wall Route

Dawn this morning was crisp and very cold, with frost lining the deep hollows of the glen and a clear, still quality to the air. I tramped along the road briskly, hands in pockets, to keep warm. My plan was to investigate the potential of the upper tier of G Buttress; however, on inspection it proved to be unacceptably loose and slime-ridden even for my tastes!

I decided to escape the face by continuing along the Rake. I then visited my Pinnacle on the South West Face of Stob Coire nan Lochan, just around the hill. There is much potential on this massive, squat spire of rock, but as usual I was limited by being alone. Three lines on the South and West walls appear to be of very high quality, mostly following corners and grooves; one of them is a 10m overhanging finger-crack, capped by a monstrous corner, and is probably of extreme difficulty.

The East Wall, rising out of the short gully on the right-hand side of the spire, is altogether shorter and tamer-looking. There is an obvious line breaching its defences. It proved to be a reasonable little climb on excellent rock (albeit with some loose blocks, which I cleaned up). It ascends a short steep wall to a ledge, then traverses left to enter a narrow vertical corner to the top. Only a short pitch at Difficult standard, but it gets a star in my book!

After having lunch on the ideal picnic spot that the summit of the Pinnacle makes, I enjoyed a leisurely ridge walk and soaked in the fine Autumn views. This really is a stunning time of year, when the weather is nice!

Photos from today

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