Saturday, 3 October 2009

All change

Our internet is down at home at the moment, so I'm just typing a brief report from the public computer in Ballachulish. I made a short excursion onto Aonach Dubh the other day, and added two direct starts to No.2 Gully Buttress Climb, both of a Difficult standard and quite serious for the grade, as they share an exposed hard move with no available protection--the same sort of climbing as on Shrike Ridge, but sadly less sustained and on poorer rock.

I also discovered a buttress with no recorded routes at all. I've called it Hidden Buttress as it can only be seen as a distinct crag from the top of No.2 Gully Buttress, which is itself rarely climbed, meaning that only a few people are likely to have noticed the Hidden Buttress at all. I climbed an Exceptionally Difficult face route on the left side of the crag, which I have called Hidden Wall. I dislodged quite a bit of loose rock but there is still a lot of slime and rubbish waiting to come down the overhanging corner. It might be more realistic as a winter route. I also prospected a truly excellent line on this crag ... and I'm saying no more about that for the time being!

The weather is in a state of change, with a big storm last night paving the way for blizzards and ice to come on Sunday and Monday, if the forecast holds true. Fingers are crossed that this will herald the start of the winter season.

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